It was one of the hottest days of the year when we met in July for volunteer work in Penpole Woods. Not only was it hot, but the chosen location was distant from all of the usual meeting points. The area, deep in Penpole Wood, was at the bottom of the steps we rebuilt about ten years ago. Until last month they deposited the visitor into a thicket of cherry laurel.
Animated transition showing the view from the bottom of the Penpole Wood steps.
Already, someone had been trying to keep the paths there open, taking out branches overhanging the path, but our ambitions were somewhat greater. Considering the forecast, we had a good turnout, and thank you to all our regulars who made it. We started with the knowledge we’d cut things short to avoid the worst of the heat, but the shady area on the north-facing slope gave us some respite from the worst of it.
The impact of work turned out to be more incredible than expected. A relatively dense cherry laurel gave way quickly, revealing a number of handsome mature trees that hadn’t really been noticeable at the start of work; If we’d have spotted them earlier, we might have been a bit more careful over the location of spoil piles and their visibility.
Animated transition showing the view eastwards along the middle path.
By the end of the day, the section of the middle path we worked on was unrecognisable. Now, coming off the end of the steps, the scene opens out into a light clearing with a backdrop of fine trees. The route up from Lawrence Weston has been cleared of a lot of obstacles and joins the middle path at a junction at the stone steps. Hopefully the path remains traceable through the stone rubble.
We had planned to return here this month to continue work, but an urgent matter has cropped up at the Lilypond. September will be Heritage Open Day, and October is usually the Big Bulb Plant, so continuing the work may take longer than planned.
Looking west along the middle path before and after work clearing cherry laurelThe three stone steps between the middle path and main steps appear from beneath the cherry laurel.
Worked carried on into July to clear the regrown cherry laurel in Penpole Wood. Most visitors will see little change from the recent work much is hidden well back from the main path through the woods. However, the impact of cherry laurel on the native woodland is severe if it’s let get out hand.
looking west through the wood before and after the re-trimming of the cherry laurel.
Since we cleared the area in 2016 there has been a lot of regrowth, particularly on the harder to reach area along the top of the former quarry. Because the laurel has historically stunted tree growth in the area an opening had developed in the tree canopy and Brambles had begun to colonise the area aided by the catenary of laurel stems; in short, the area was in a big mess again.
the view east through the working party area.
A relatively small group of volunteers, a usual state of affairs for the holiday season, set about putting things in order and extending the areas cleared in the last few months. Cherry laurel has been felled again, untangled from the brambles and stacked out of the way. More of the saplings planted in 2016 have also been revealed again in thriving condition. Whilst there remain some laurel bushes to the periphery of the area, ones we had neither time nor energy to tackle on a hot day, there’s not enough to occupy a full working party. These will be left for the moment while we focus on new areas.
looking up slope from the edge of the old quarry and towards the main Penpole Wood path.
For a number of years, the dreaded Ash Dieback has been slow to take hold at Kings Weston. While other areas in the city were quickly decimated by this fungal disease the estate has been less quick in succumbing. We identified early signs it had arrived several years ago, and perhaps it’s the prevailing winds off the Severn have blown spores away and slowed it’s progress. However, it’s now very much caught up with us.
A series of ash trees and large boughs have fallen recently, these across one of the main paths through the woods between The Circle and Mancroft Avenue below. KWAG volunteers have now cleared all but the trunks from here. .
Even trees on The Circle have become bare and begun dying. These grew up since the 1960s.
Whilst Ash was not commonly planted in the Kings Weston parkland in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Century, it has become established, particularly since WWII and the institutional decline of the historic estate. There are of course some notable exceptions, huge mature trees that have established in Penpole Wood and elsewhere. Most, though, are of middling size and have thrived on neglect.
These more mature trees are now the victims of die-back, with many now showing advanced signs of ill health. Penpole Wood has recently been littered with fallen ash, or large boughs that have broken away from distressed trees. You’ll notice the ground around ash trees littered with leaves and dead twigs, and their canopies thinning and full of dead twigs and dying branches.
There are a series of dead or dying trees alongside the historic Viewing Terrace behind the Echo, a number on the Circle, and many more overhanging paths and public rights of around the estate. There is a genuine risk to the public from these dying trees, so we urge everyone to be aware, particularly during windy weather. We hope to go through the parkland soon with the parks team to discuss the problem and identify which trees may need to be dealt with and brought down before they fall.
Ash trees at the top of the slope above Shirehampton Road, immediately over the Georgian Viewing Terrace and the public right of way are now heavily impacted, with some already dead.
Our gradual passage back through Penpole Wood continued last month, retracing our steps with removing cherry laurel. Having built-up momentum on this job since April we’ve continued westwards through the woodland, tracking along the top edge of the former quarry.
Animated image showing the same area before and after work. This view looks back towards Kings Weston house, with the main path just out of sight behind the trees on the right.
The sunnier Summer months are best spent labouring in the relative shade, the heat usually tiring our team of volunteers quicker. Despite the warm conditions, we tackled a large portion of the laurel that had regrown to considerable height in some areas. Over the last eight or nine years, the laurel had bushed-out with some areas with very dense coverage.
Looking south, upslope from the edge of the historic quarry. Many of the liberated saplings can be identified.
The are was planted with saplings following our original work, and we’re glad to say that there were many left, albeit somewhat overshadowed by their more established and overpowering neighbours. This work will help protect the progress we made and allow these saplings to bring greater biodiversity into this part of the woods.
The flat area adjacent to the main path through Penpole Woods was less choked than the top of the quarry. The path can be seen passing in the background after volunteers removed the invasive laurel.
As working parties draw to a close on a Saturday afternoon, sometimes we’ve not managed to complete what we might have hoped; bits get left behind as we move on to other parts of the estate. Last month’s volunteer work tackled three such areas at the very heart of the parkland close to The Circle.
We’ve had several working parties along the north edge of the ancient lime Avenue, mainly around 2016-17. These focussed on natural spacing and the chore of removing over-mature laurels. The areas left included some dense and challenging laurels, not reason for us to have neglected them the first time, but enough to keep us occupied for a full working party this time around.
With the cherry laurel removed, the woodland opens out onto the ancient lime avenue beyond.
One area was just to the north of the ancient Lime Avenue, and work here gave us the added opportunity to reinforce the line of the path through trimming snowberry bushes. The second area included a concrete base to a WWII Nissen hut, one that was joined formerly by many others hidden in the trees. The final area bordered the Quarry garden on its eastern end and a forest of mock orange bushes, part of historic planting, to the east. An added challenge in the last area was tidying a fallen tree that had blocked one of the well used paths in this area.
The central of three locations tackled last month, directly on the main path into the woods. The WWII base appears from below the invasive cherry laurel.
Split into three adjacent groups, a good turnout of volunteers saw work progress quickly from east to west. We usually lose people in the afternoons as they get tired or need to get onto other things but still managed to extend the area tackled westwards and begin trimming of laurel regrowth that has begun to regain a foothold above the quarry. By about 2pm we had achieved everything on our agenda and more!
It was interesting to uncover the base of the WWII Nissen Hut and its features, more of that later. The historic area of Mock Orange is now more visible, framed by the less invasive Portuguese laurels we’ve left in place. For the intrepid, there’s the opportunity to try and trace the line of the lost Victorian path that once ran through the back of this area, now freed from the choking embrace of cherry laurels.
The third location, close to the east end of the quarry garden, and looking up-slope towards the main path through the woods.
Perhaps it was the forecast of bad weather, or the holidays, but we had a very low turn out in July for the working party. However regrettable, we were still able to make headway on our challenge of clearing cherry laurel from an area close to the historic Scouts chapel in Penpole Wood. We will need to return here again this coming week, to today as much as to complete the job.
The difference made between June and July, with the lime trees of the Scout’s Chapel appearing beyond.
The work over the last couple of months has revealed another post quarry, later turned into part of the landscaped grounds of the house. As well as views through the woods to the tall lime trees around the Scout’s chapel, itself part of the Georgian landscaping, work has opened around a mature beech tree and yews. The last push in August should add another beech tree to this collection of veteran parkland trees and open the woodland floor for colonisation by native species.
Because of the small turnout, and the rain that eventually curtailed efforts in the afternoon, we were unable to property and safely tidy up the area, but we made sure that nothing was blocking any public areas around the quarry. Apologies for the unsightly mess, but we’ll make sure to clean it up this time around!
looking eastwards, along the slope, with the main path through the woods on the right.The view in the opposite direction, in the direction of Penpole Point.
This time of year might not be the best to think about camping, but we wanted to share a new artefact that’s recently come our way: a small green flag. Many will know that Penpole Wood and the slopes below, where Lawrence Weston estate now stands, were the home of Bristol’s district Scout camp between 1937 and 1947; It’s a rather sad story that ended with their land being compulsorily purchased by the City Council for new housing. But, in 1937, after their purchase of 70 acres of woods and a couple of fields in the park below they set out with great optimism to create somewhere that Scouts could come to hone their camping skills, pioneering, and woodcraft.
Teams of scouts raise the new camp flagpole in the fields below Penpole Wood. Trees in the distance on the right are still recognisable as those on The Tump. The location of the flag would be around where 19 Mancroft Avenue stands today..
By the end of the first year it was clear that it had been an immediate success. The Scouts chapel, steps through Penpole Woods, and the campfire circle had been set out, with Penpole Lodge and Wood Lodge being used as storage and offices. A campsite in the woods was created in Jubilee Clearing, surrounded by trees of the Victorian arboretum. The second year, 1938, began with great optimism. Early in the year a magnificent new flagpole of about 50ft in height was manhandled into the fields and set up close to the campfire circle.
a flyer handed out to advertise the “Penpoloree”
The highpoint of that year was the Whitsun jamboree camp held over the summer bank holiday weekend, christened the Penpoloree. This was the main annual gathering to which all the district’s scouts were invited, attracting visitors from troops around the country. Events and displays were put on over three consecutive days, the event even forming part of the city’s civic calendar with the distinguished attendance of the Lord Mayor. It was also an opportunity for the Scouts to showcase their campsite to the general public who were invited to the camp sing along, with guests paying 6d for the privilege.
1938 was particularly special for the attendance of the 8th Earl of Buckinghamshire, John Hampden Mercer-Henderson (1906-1963), Commissioner for the Boy Scout movement. He camped with the scouts for the duration of the jamboree and keenly involved himself in the weekend’s events. His presence cemented Penpole on the national scouting stage, resulting in plenty of press coverage both locally and nationally.
The culmination of each day’s event was focussed on the huge campfire hosted in the fields below Penpole Wood. Here, with the camp chief presiding in a chair hollowed from a giant log, dignitaries were hosted and public beheld the massed voices of the campers in song. A special Penpole camp yell was also a highlight of festivities before campers returned to their tents either nearby or in Jubilee Clearing at the top end of the woods.
The Commissioner of the Boy Scout movement, the Earl of Buckinghamshire, conducts proceedings around the jamboree campfire in 1938.
During the camp special pennants were awarded to recognise particular scouts and patrol groups who had excelled in their work, our recently acquired flag no doubt being one of those handed out by the Commissioner on that Whitsun weekend. By coincidence one of the photos published in the Evening Post shows the Earl presenting a similar pennant to the Lord Mayor at the camp. Sadly we know nothing of its history between then and our acquisition.
the pennant, awarded for good camping at the Penpole Whitsun jamboree in 1938. The Lord Mayor is presented with a similar pennant by the Earl of Buckingham.
The camp was a huge success. Over the weekend Penpole attracted 897 campers with another 479 visiting scouts, and over 2000 paying members of Bristol’s public. It was to be a sunny and halcyon time for those who attended, unaware that the onset of war the following year and the council’s desperate need for housing afterwards would overshadow their time there. Today the
If you remember camping at Penpole or have any more memorabilia from the scout’s time at Penpole, we’d love to hear from you. We know that there were films recorded during the 1938 event by W. F. E Gill, so we’d love to know what happened to them. If you’d like to read more about the Scout’s history on the Kings Weston estate, take a look at the detailed journals written at the time by W.G.N Webber who was camp coordinator for their time there. The original is held at Bristol Archives and is free to view on request.
the recently revealed line of yews looking up the slope towards the main path
We’ve made a habit recently of clearing undergrowth and revealing some majestic trees in the woodland, but it’s easy to forget that this wilderness was once all part of a designed landscape; Our April Working Party uncovered more trees that help tell that story. Just to the north side of the main path through the woods we discovered a line of three mature yew trees, clearly planted in an intentional line, and with the stumps of a fourth and fifth tree nearby and to the same spacing.
the boundary of the woods shown in 1772
Yew are something of a tell-tale species at Kings Weston; whilst their scattering may at first seem random through the woodland many relate to historic planning schemes and features. When compared with historic plans and illustrations the significance of the yews becomes more clear. The three yews we rediscovered last month run along a former boundary between the more open parkland to the east, and the long-established woodland to the west. Originally a wall formed this boundary, with a set of gates straddling the main path, but, by the 1770s this had be de-formalised and instead an iron park fence replaced it. An estate plan from this date clearly shows the planting of trees on the outer edge of it and the yews are certainly the same ones described in plan.
the walled boundary and gates into Penpole Wood in 1710
This is not the only instance of yews indicating lost historic features. Further along the path through the woods to Penpole Point you will encounter many more, frequently grouped around certain points. A careful comparison between these locations and an earlier estate plan of 1720 suggest that these are the remains of woodland saloons where viewing corridors were cut through the trees northwards towards the Severn and Wales beyond. Whether these yews were planted as a deliberate grove, or whether they are the vestiges of a more formal hedged circle can’t be established, but their planted locations are not coincidental.
Penpole Wood in 1720 showing the main path and circular saloons with viewing alleys cut through the trees.
Our next Working Party will reveal another designed feature in which yews feature prominently: an avenue of mixed yews and oaks leading from the ruins of Penpole Lodge to the Jubilee Clearing. This strip of land is a curiosity. In 1772 the park boundary appears to run just above the main path through the woods, so this elongated sliver of land between that path, the current boundary wall, and running as far east as to incorporate the clearing, is outside the woodland. By 1840 the park boundary had been pushed out to its current extent and the line of yews planted. The planting defining the clearing (along with more cherry laurel) appears to have been laid out at the same time. This may all have been the work of the last of the Southwell family to live at Kings Weston , the 21st Baron de Clifford. He was known to be a keen planter and the dates, between 1777 and 1832, and the enclosure Acts would fit this incursion onto the common land.
So next time you are walking through Penpole Wood keep an eye open, and next time you spot a yew ask yourself what it might be telling you about the lost historic landscape and the people who created it.
The Noise turning back the clock in Jubilee Clearing
We know that many local members of KWAG recall with affection their time camping in Penpole Wood when it was used by Bristol Scout troops between 1937 and 1947. The accompanying, atmospheric, image of Penpole Wood (right) shows shows it in the final year of operation as the District camp. During the period we understand that ‘Jubilee Clearing’ in Penpole Wood offered the most choice location to pitch your tent. The area had, until recent efforts, almost vanished into the woodland.
On 2nd May this year a large group of The Noise volunteers from Christian groups around Bristol came to Penpole Woods and commenced on the clearance of the old camp area. As with much of Penpole Wood, since the Second World War it has become largely unmanaged and overgrown. The recent work has restored a sense of openness to the area once more, and the Victorian specimen conifers – Coastal Redwood and Morinda Spruce – planted around its edges can now be seen to their full effect. (Find out more about these historic trees on our Tree Trail). It is hoped that the Clearing will offer different habitats to the main woodland area and that the clearing will add to the biodiversity of the estate. Volunteers also took up the challenge to clear dumped rubbish in the lower area of Penpole Wood behind Mancroft Avenue, making a huge impact on the amenity of the area.
We owe all the volunteers who made this project happen a huge debt of gratitude, and we’re sure that everyone who remembers Jubilee Clearing in its former condition will join us in thanks to The Noise. It was also wonderful to see young people getting so involved in the restoration project and clearly having as much enjoyment from it as the Scouts would once have had.
