Author Archives: David Martyn

Plans and photo: two new historic finds

The Miles family, who lived at Kings Weston for most of the 19th Century, were famously private, and the public were kept well away from the house, behind the parkland boundary.  Photos of Kings Weston are, therefore, surprisingly rare for such an important historic building, especially from before the 20th Century. We’ve recently uncovered what’s considered to be the earliest photograph of the house, which we reproduce here. The scene seems little changed from today, looking across the lawns towards the building, with the evergreen border sheltering the garden front from the excesses of the wind, and as such it’s difficult to date. All we have to go on is the small size of the card, a “carte de visite”, and the name of the photographer, Maurice Batiste.

The earliest known photo of Kings Weston house, Maurice Batiste, circa 1870s. 

Batiste was a Frenchman who arrived in Bath in about 1871 where he set up business in Bladud’s Buildings. His career is little documented but for several court records where his temperamental mood appears to have got him into trouble on several occasions. By 1881 he’d moved on again, so we can be fairly certain his Kings Weston photo dates to the 1870s and, but the quality of the card, probably the earlier part of that decade.


The British Library has recently published a vast catalogue of topographical drawings and plans from the collections of George III. It’s probably unsurprising that amongst the collection there’s something of the famous Kings Weston estate represented. Of particular interest is a high quality copy of a notable estate plan of 1720. Bristol Archives also holds copies of this plan, but this is the first time one has been more publically available.

Although not identified by the British Library the tiny signature of W. Hallett appears in reverse in the cartouche, so we can attribute it to this otherwise unknown engraver. The 1720 plan is the first known measured survey of the estate, and shows in detail the house and parkland, immediately before Sir John Vanbrugh began erecting new garden buildings at The Echo, and rebuilt Penpole Lodge. The detail of the gardens, courtyards, radiating avenues, and formal layout of walks through Penpole Wood have been fundamental in understanding the landscaped grounds of the park during the early Georgian era, and the context of Vanbrugh’s Baroque house, before it was de-formalised later the same century.

W. Hallett’s 1720 estate survey of the Kings Weston estate. (British Library) 

     

Big Bulb Plant 2020

It seems an age ago now, back in October, when we ran our Big Bulb Plant. Despite the constraints of working within the restrictions of the Global Pandemic we managed to orchestrate an event that gave opportunities for local families and regular volunteers to help plant 6000 daffodil bulbs along the ancient Lime Avenue. We had to be careful in not ordering too many bulbs, and limiting our expectations, but the turnout was good and we were forced to let some of our regular volunteers go by lunchtime, in order that there were enough bulbs left for the remaining booked families. Sorry to anyone who had to head home earlier than planned, but your hard work in the morning was gratefully received!

The area was set up with social distancing measures in place, and fenced areas for small parties to work within, and this worked effectively during the day. With the help of lots of kids and parents we have successfully filled the whole of the area. We also have to thank everyone who kindly, and generously donated to KWAG to support the project, and also to the Co-Op who have matched volunteer donations with a grant.  


Naturally we won’t know how successful we’ve been until next Spring, but we anticipate that the new area will complement that planted in 2019 around the Circle. Keep your eyes peeled for bulbs showing their heads, maybe as early as January!  

Puzzle of the Portland Stone Parapet.

Some of the stones revealed recently in the bulb plant area.

A frequent query we receive asks what are the big stones littered along the Lime Avenue and the Circle? Following our recent clearance along parts of the avenue some of these blocks have become far more prominent, and October’s Big Bulb Plant will need to take place amongst them. The blocks are huge, massive lumps of white stone that are so large they have managed to remain largely unmolested for, as far as we can tell, their entire time at Kings Weston.

Their story is unusual, and unanswered questions remain about them, but what we do know is that they are the original parapet stones of the Georgian Bristol Bridge. The once-famous medieval bridge across the Avon was replaced by a smart new one that opened in 1768. Designed by the appropriately named architect James Bridges it followed similar designs for Blackfriars Bridge being built across the Thames at the same time, and shared the same high quality Portland stone quarried from the Isle of Purbeck.

A Georgian view of Bristol Bridge from the east by John Hill (1812-1879) showing the balustrade.

The bridge served Bristol well for just short of a century, but an increase in traffic during the Nineteenth Century required the old bridge to be modified and widened. The old parapets and balustrade were dismantled in 1864 and, for some reason, caught the eye of Philip William Skinner Miles of Kings Weston House. Members of the Miles family were senior partners in a bank on Corn Street, not far from the crossing, so the work may have caught his attention and some plan come to his mind for how to recycle the stonework on his estate.

The stonework was duly dismantled and carefully transported to Kings Weston, where it appears to have been laid out along the length of the Lime Avenue and around the Circle. Miles’s acquisition is recorded in a drawing of the old bridge in Bristol Record Office with a pencil note explaining when it was moved, but, sadly, no explanation at all for what was planned for it.

Many of the stones in the parkland today are still identifiable, with mouldings, and features recognisable from James Bridges original drawings. Some are from the base course of the balustrade, some the piers, and others the copings. Some retain the square mortice holes into which the decorative balusters would have fitted, and others have a carved channels and sockets where wrought iron chain bars were intended to strengthen the structure.

Victorian traced drawing of the bridge with captions dating the transfer of the stones to Kings Weston (Bristol Archives) 
A block on the Lime Avenue showing socket holes for the stone balusters. 

The next mention of the stones doesn’t come for another century, in January 1946, after the last of the Miles family had died, and when a notice is posted in the Western Daily Press advertising “Sundial or birdbath pedestals of historic interest. Limited number of stone balusters from parapet of old Bristol Bridge. £3 3s each – apply foreman, Kingsweston Estate yard, Kingsweston”. The advert must have piqued the interest of a journalist at the paper as, six days later, a short article appeared saying that a phone message had been received from Kings Weston house stating that all of the ornamental carved balusters had since been sold, “The balusters, by the by, came to light when a workman on the Kingsweston Estate was digging for a new place for his runner beans. How thy came to be buried no one can say”. None survives in the former estate yard behind the old stables on Napier Miles Road.

Sadly the balusters and the balustrade will never now be reunited, and only the most immovable masonry survives on the estate as a constant curiosity. Perhaps there’s some local garden still adorned by an errant balustrade stone propping up a birdbath?

Balustrade stone from above one of the bridge piers with distinctive mouldings. 

Tudor stone survivals

A recent local auction brought some artefacts with a Kings Weston connection to our attention. As many people will know the present Kings Weston house was preceded by an older mansion, one swept away in 1711 ahead of reconstruction to the designs of Sir John Vanbrugh starting the following year. This earlier house appears to have been built by Sir William Wyntour.

The Tudor Kings Weston House recorded in an engraving of about 1711, just before it was demolished.

Queen Elizabeth I appointed Sir William Vice-Admiral of England, the second most powerful position in the Royal Navy, and was succeeded in that position by Sir Francis Drake. Sir William was knighted by the Queen in 1573 and was pivotal in the repelling of the Spanish Armada in 1588. In 1561 William had purchased the manor of Lydney in Gloucestershire, on the north side of the Severn, and rebuilt the house there. He accumulated other Gloucestershire lands, and in 1570 bought the Kings Weston estate; As at Lydney it’s likely that he erected a grand new mansion here shortly afterwards. The recently rediscovered artifacts appear to be fragments of that house.   

Two decorated fragments from the same fire surround. The figures either side of the coat of arms in the centre suggest youth, on the left,  and old age with a scythe on the right. 

Eight decorated stone fragments make up the collection of stonework. Several can be identified as parts of decorative fireplace surrounds, one is a section of a mullion window, and there are a pair of carved stone heads. Two portions of stone have been reconstructed into a tall heraldic lion, though now heavily defaced. The lion retains an odd lead insert that might have been a lance or banner that it’d once clasped in its paws. The heads are badly weather-beaten and have been exposed to the elements longer than the other fragments, though they are still recognisable as that of two men; one with a beard and one clean shaven.

 A pair of badly weathered stone heads, supposedly showing Sir William Wyntour and his son
A heraldic lion repaired from being in two pieces. Possibly from a gate pier, or a roof parapet decoration.

When the collection came to auction it was described as “reputedly” from Kings Weston, though the circumstances of their discovery have since been established more accurately. The fragments were discovered in a boundary wall, on the “west side of Kingsweston Hill” by local amateur antiquarian Antony Scammel. Scammel was a well-known collector of historic artefacts and coins, and recorded the find in writing on the back of a print showing the old house that also formed part of the auction lot. He recovered the stones in 1967, but aside from the rough identification of the find spot we are still unsure of the exact location.

 Antony Scammel  (1937-2019) who discovered the fragments in a wall in 1967.

What we can tell from the stones is their rough date, from the style of the designs, and that they were deliberately broken up to use as building stone. Stylistically they accord with having been part of Sir William’s Tudor mansion, and the quality of the design and execution shows that they were from a high status building. Certainly a heraldic lion gate finial or roof ornament would most likely be found on a house of Kings Weston’s size and quality rather than a smaller house in the same vicinity. We must take Mr Scammel’s assessment that the wall in which they were found was Eighteenth Century on face value, but this would tie in well with the documented demolition date of the old building. Mr Scammel’s attribution of the sculpted heads as Sir William Wyntour and his son can be less certain.

Postcards from Kings Weston

A major new addition has been made to our website recently. You can now browse a collection of over 100 historic postcard images from across the Kings Weston estate.

In the early decades of the Twentieth Century postcards could be sent between towns in a matter of hours, with several deliveries a day; they were the text messages of their era. The collection dates mainly to the years before the First World War, before the telephone became the quickest way to communicate. The picturesque Kings Weston estate offered photographers great opportunities for to produce popular views for cards, and they seized on Penpole Point, the Iron Bridge, and the lily pond for their chocolate-box qualities. After the First World War postcards began a slow decline. Amongst the collection are a few representing the inter-war period, but only a couple from after WWII.

Postcard view of Shirehampton Lodge at the entrance to the landscaped parkland

Views around Kings Weston house itself are relatively rare. It may have been the retiring character of Philip Napier Miles that saw him reluctant to see his home recorded in popular postcards. But a significant number that do record the house stem from the period it was used as an auxiliary Hospital during the Great War; perhaps the cards were sold in aid of Red Cross charities that Miles keenly supported. These were published by S E Robinson who ran the Post Office in Shirehampton and record many of the wounded servicemen who were sent to Kings Weston to recuperate. 

The house in service as a WWI Auxiliary Hospital. 

S E Robinson is again well represented amongst cards of Penpole Point that appear to have been a keen obsession of postcard photographers, with the spectacular views across the Severn of particular note. Sadly these views have gone; along with nearby Penpole Lodge that’s another frequent feature of cards. Spectacular views also attracted photographers to the southern part of the estate, on Shirehampton Park, where the impressive panoramas above horseshoe bend were a popular retreat for locals. As unlikely as it sounds the driving of the Portway through the same pastoral scene didn’t diminish its interest for postcard views. Perhaps it was the marvelous feat engineering that attracted purchasers of these views, many of which feature the new carriageway as much as the views beyond it. 

The view from Penpole Point at the turn of the Century.

These postcards are an important visual and social record of the times. Many have been written and sent, and occasionally you will find interesting snippets about the estate. One written from Kings Weston house and sent in 1906 is from an unnamed young lady who wrote “This is just a view of the house, but I am living at my mother’s. I have exactly the same work to do here as I did at the Castle, the housework. Instead of this I wish myself at home. Tell Jack I wish I never saw the place.”

You can look at the whole collection one the website at:  https://www.kwag.org.uk/gallery/historic-images-2/postcards-from-kings-weston/

The recently opened Portway with a train to Avonmouth passing below. Circa 1923. 

Historic artefacts donated to KWAG

Donor, David Pickering (right) and his partner John with the box with its Kings Weston contents. 

Last month we shared some photos and memories of David Pickering whose uncle, Fred Whapshare. Since then David has very generously donated a number of historic items with Kings Weston connections to KWAG.

Central to the small collection is a beautiful box veneered in beautiful Coromandel wood, with robust but elegant brass edges and handles. During the reign of Queen Victoria, Coromandel was considered one of the most exotic, luxurious and expensive woods to work with and it was the veneer of choice for some of the finest boxes. It’s of little surprise that such a fine wood was selected for use on a possession of the Miles family who lived at Kings Weston between 1834 and 1935. In the top a rebated brass plaque has the initials HCWM joins the arm-and-anchor arms of the family; from this we can attribute the box’s ownership of Henry Cruger Miles, widely known as Cruger.

The Coromandel travelling case of Cruger Miles, 1874.
The Miles arms and monogram of Henry Cruger William Miles on the top of the box

He lived with his brother, Philip William Skinner Miles, at Kings Weston for much of his life. He never married, but was a highly regarded in Bristol, being High Sheriff of the City, a Master of the Merchant Ventures, and the principle supporter of the rebuilding of the Cathedral nave. On his death in 1888 he bequeathed all his possessions to the only heir, his nephew Philip Napier Miles, amongst which we assume was this case.

The interior of the box

It’s designed as a travelling case, with handles, a robust but elegant exterior, and an interior fitted out with compartments, a silk lining, and a detachable mirror. Some of the original contents are happily still contained. A cut-throat razor and a silver travelling shaving brush are, sadly, the only survivors, but enough to be able to date the box to 1874 from the hallmarks.

Razor and travelling shaving brush, dated to 1874.

Now housed in the box are a partial set of gilt livery buttons carrying the Miles family arms. These, Mr Pickering tells us, were dug from the garden of a cottage on Kings Weston Lane that his Uncle and Aunt lived in until after WWII. Perhaps they were stripped from an old uniform and discarded when new clothes were procured.

 Four gilt livery buttons bearing the Miles arms and dug up from a cottage on Kings Weston Lane.

Another item with a direct Kings Weston connection is an engraved copper printing plate. On this, written backwards, is an invite to dinner with Mr and Mrs Napier Miles at Kings Weston, with the details of the invitee and time to be filled in by hand when the plate was used to print invitations. It must date to after Napier Miles married in 1899 and his death in 1935, but it’s not possible to narrow down dates further.  

Copper plate for printing dinner invited for Napier Miles and his wife. The image reversed on the right to show the text. 
Fred Whapshare, head gardener at Kings Weston’s, secateurs

The last item is a more palpable link to My Pickering’s own family connection. A pair of secateurs was owned by his uncle in his role as head gardener at Kings Weston. We shared a photo of Fred Whapshare in our last newsletter and the garden tool was his, and shared with Napier Miles when the latter borrowed them, on occasion taking them to use at his Italian villa at Allassio. 

We’re incredibly grateful to Mr Pickering for the kind gift of these items, that will now form part of our growing collection of books, images, and artefacts with Kings Weston connections.      

A Kings Weston family

We were contacted recently by David Pickering who has a family connecting to Kings Weston and still lives nearby. He’s kindly send us some historic images to publish in our newsletter and we’re grateful to him for adding to our understanding of the estate’s history.

Fred Whapshare, head gardener at Kings Weston, probably in the late 1920s. The stone gate piers are those outside the Brewhouse (courtesy of David Pickering)

One of the photos is of his uncle Fred Whapshare posed, probably in the 1920s, in front of the stone gate-piers at the back of the house, one of which still stands. Mr Pickering writes that his uncle “ worked on the estate most of his life, as a gardener ,being born in about 1893. His wife worked as a housemaid there, and they were left in charge as custodians when the house was closed up before the old lady (Sybil, Philip Napier Miles’ wife) moved to the House in the Garden. They eventually bought the attached-row of Hawksmoor cottages in the lane, before one day selling up and building the bungalow ‘Wingrove’ in some of their garden.”

He continues “My uncle carried on as gardener when Mrs Miles moved to the House in the Garden, and I have fond memories of being taken round the place as a child, being given my first-ever peach from a hot-house wall. Really I have always felt that the estate was part of my own background. My Aunt and Uncle were devoted to the place, and worked there most of their lives. Some entertaining stories of staff parties, with exuberant footmen!”

When, in 1937, the contents of the house were auctioned, after the death of Philip Napier Miles, Mrs Whapshare bought a few keepsakes. These included some paintings and etchings of Italy done by the Miles’s brother in law, the artist Robert Goff. Goff regularly joined the Miles’s at their villa on the Italian coast and they shared a love of the country. Also amongst Goff’s works Mrs Whapshare bought was this painting of Kings Weston, dated 5th September 1911, and looking across Shirehampton Park. The haystacks in the middle distance are at the bottom of Longcombe, now on the golf course, and the present location of a utilitarian steel shed, but the focus of the painting appears to be the twisted red pine tree, a feature that appears in many of Goff’s other works.

A view by Robert Goff, dated 5th September 1911, and showing the view into Longcombe in Shirehampton Park. (courtesy of David Pickering)

Another historic view of Penpole uncovered

Another Eighteenth Century picture of Kings Weston has appeared recently. Dating from the end of the century it comes for a period when the estate was internationally famed for its spectacular views, its grounds, and collection of paintings in the house. Probably produced as a souvenir for wealthy visitors to pick up as a memento of their visit this view of Penpole Point, the dial, and Lodge is one of many similar paintings and drawings produced to capture the spectacular panoramas once enjoyed. This variation on the theme is unusual in the artist having stepped-back from the point itself, and included the more ornamental east from of Penpole Lodge as well as Penpole Lane in the composition. Although the accuracy of the detail and perspective can’t be entirely trusted it’s another nice addition to the collection of known historic images of the estate.   

The Scouts and WWII remembered

There had been great efforts made to celebrate VE day at Penpole Point in 1945; volunteers had erected a huge bonfire on the spot near Penpole Lodge where celebratory beacons were traditionally lit, but all came to nothing as the weather put pay to the party and heavy rain dampened many similar bonfires across the city. Rather than to dwell on this we’d like to give you an idea how Penpole  Wood contributed to the war effort in a small way.

drawing showing the impact of bombs on Penpole from Webber’s log book.. 

Things started even before the war had begun. In April 1939 there was a major training exercise conducted across the city to ensure its defences were operational, and, no doubt, to give the public some reassurance the authorities were prepared. This involved planes being flown across Bristol for anti-aircraft guns to target (firing blanks), and at night a similar mock raid with the addition of seach-lights. One of the mobile searchlights was stationed at Penpole Point and the exercise was reported to have been “spectacular”. It’s not known whether Penpole Point was regularly used for search-lights when aerial attacks came for real, but its elevated position away from targets in Avonmouth would have been helpful.

We’ve mentioned before the requisitioning of Penpole Lodge by the Home Guard, but the story doesn’t end there. In 1937 Bristol’s Scout groups bought the woods and adjacent fields for a district scout camp. Their time there is well documented in a log book written by the commissioner and warden in charge of the camp Mr W Webber. Webber records how camping was heavily restricted during the war years, though it still attracted boys from around the city at weekends subject to ensuring they included their gas mask in their kit.

The change in scouting activity sketched in the log book. 

In November 1940 the woods were “lit up like fairyland” as between 60 and 80  incendiary bombs rained down. The following month two high explosive bombs exploded at the bottom of the woods. It was at about the same time that the Home Guard took over Penpole Lodge as a look-out.

The Scouts threw open the woods to the Home Guard as a training ground for scouting and their tactics likely to be helpful in case of invasion. The Home Guard were taught such essentials as camouflage and stealth movements by the Warden of the camp assisted by one of the older Ranger Scouts. Webber wrote “Penpole will have something to be proud of in the fact that she did her bit by training local defenders to do their jobs”.

Advice provided to the Home Guard by Scouts following a training exercise in Penpole Woods.  
the log altar set up in the Scouts chapel in Penpole Woods. 

One final tragic detail worth relaying from the logbook, and, at this time, it’s important to remember those who gave their lives during the war. John Halpin of the St Christopher’s scout group and a district commissioner for the East Bristol Rover Scouts, lost his life proceeding to his post in Avonmouth during an air raid; He was just 21. Rather than being buried he was cremated and his ashes were scattered in Penpole Woods at the Scout’s Chapel, within the circle of lime trees that had been turned into an open air church when the scouts first took over the land. Today it’s sometimes called the seven sisters.

Easter at Penpole Point in past times

For a few brief years in the prelude to the First World War Penpole Point became a popular place to offer praise over the Easter weekend. In 1910 the then vicar of the parish of Shirehampton, Rev Hector Powell, began the practice of holding open-air services on the grassy slopes of the point. Powell was an enthusiastic evangelical figure who stood in contrast to some of the more traditional clergy of the time, but were welcomed and attracted followers from the city beyond the village.  

Penpole Point, Easter 1913, looking north with Penpole Lane on the left. 

 Evangelical gatherings at Penpole Point were held on Easter Monday and were less formal than the Sunday church services. They were very popular locally and attracted great crowds. There was singing by a special choir and Powell noted “the natural formation of this valley-like spot lent itself to the sound of many voices”. The spot this 1913 photo records hosting the services does indeed offer a well-appointed amphitheatre for crowds to gather on, with the service taking place on Penpole Lane on the left. Just visible on the horizon is the tower of Penpole Lodge.  

Penpole Lodge in the early 20th Century. 

After Reverend Powel moved to a new parish in 1912 he continued the tradition of Easter Monday services at Penpole, but there was increasing conflict between him and the new incumbent at the local church over the events. Eventually, after 1914, these open air services ceased, at least in part due to the First World War.

After the war services resumed, but took place on Rogationtide, the fifth weekend after Easter, when a good harvest was prayed for and the parish boundary was often walked. The Tower of Penpole Lodge often acted as the pulpit for these open-air services, before its demolition in 1950. After that year the parish gathered in front of its ruins. In her book Shirehampton Story Ethel Thomas records that the BBC came to Penpole to film the Rogationtide ceremony which was broadcast across the UK. We wonder does anyone remember this event, or whether the BBC might have recorded it? It would be fascinating to see it again.

Rogationtide open air service taking place outside the ruins of Penpole Lodge in 1950.